Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their children do not want to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to explore these stories and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
